dreary �Message� of Governor Quitman. I escaped and reclining on
bed went to sleep. We were now in Mississippi State. To bed, &
one of the worst I ever experienced. Twas stuffed with cotton or something
that produced nought by knobs and rope like ridges. I couldn�t sleep,
and lay uneasily twisting round, looking up to the long cracks and the sky
through them, and feeling the night breezes blow in upon me; till I got fe-
verish and a little delirious. So they told me in the morning.
20. Thursday. I wanted to be off the journey, find my way to Mem-
phis, thence back for Louisville. But the fellows were so good-natured,
and expressed such disappointment at the notion, I kept on; though not
feeling at all well. All this day we followed the telegraph wires, through
a sandy and piny country. Night at Coffeeville, a neat prettyish
place, and clean, well ordered hotel.
210. Friday. Maurice Keene told how he�d been questioned as to whether
�we didn�t belong to a Circus, and the gentleman with the beard wasn�t
the clown?� by a darkey waiter. (Generally we were taken for drover�s,
considerably to Oliver Kellam�s indignation.) This day, we got into a cer-
tain track a friend of Richards� had lain down for him, the which we had
partially intended to follow all the way. Dined at a farm house. Rode
on till sunset. Stopped at a handsomely built house, with garden and grounds
around it. Inside were books, pictures, carpets, comforts and civilization. The
owners wife was a lady, amiable withal, (albeit she did paint very dubious
water color pictures, from Graham�s Magazine; framed about the walls.)
We ate a supper with the feelings of shipwrecked men restored to civilization.
In the comfortable parlor subsequently, talking & I reaching Mat Ward�s
Anglophobia book, � a funny business. Our host, Mr Kumbrough believed
in it greatly, however.
22. Saturday. It rained during the night, and towards morning; but
cleared off by 9. The road again. Through Carollton and Granada