chasm nigh upon 200 feet deep, tree tops far, far
below. / Solaced myself with �Henry Esmond�
when scenery waxed tame. Elmira by 7 or so,
and missing the cars on for Rochester, to the Brainard
Hotel as heretofore, and now, (10 o clock,) to bed.
29. Wednesday. Hurried rising & breakfast, $1.50
paid, and rattled down to the dep�t. �All aboard�, and off.
Day-breaking gloriously over the ice-bound land, great purple
clouds and bars of dusky yellow. On & on, solacing my-
self with �Henry Esmond.� Rochester, � a glimpse at
hurried eddys & whirling foam, and we are there. About
12 or 12 1/2. To a hostel, of no great pretension, where
I had a good homely 25 cent dinner, left carpet-bag and
set off straightway to explore the Genessee Falls. Across the
long railroad bridge, beneath which the water was raging and
dashing on to the fall below, the edge of which could be
seen from it; a slight circumflex of road, and striking
into an ice-covered field I reach the edge of the bank.
A raging, blustering, staggering ice-cold wind was abroad
rendering it no easy matter to keep one�s footing: it
was at best but a sliding, tumbling business I made of it.
The Falls swollen by the winter torrents and dashed and disor-
dered by the keen winds, surpassed, I think any