and the black rushing river without, were very striking. One fellow, a
nigger swore horribly, exceeding his comrades in execration, a hard matter.
A talk with the Clerk, and to bed by 10, after a drink with a Belfast
man, who has been taking a scamper over this country.
28. Wednesday. Louisville we reached by 2 or 3, but I slept on
till 6 & then left the boat. Up the bare sloping space, up a street, and
into Main Street to the Galt House, the Hotel of the place. A large
one, no handsome appearance however, within or without, rather dilapidated.
Breakfast by 7, then after a four minutes talk with Belfast man, (who
was going back, leaving the Mammoth Cave unvisited;) I rambled out to see
the city. Tis a large, dull one, some fine stores, scarcely any trees,
and no bustle or appearance of activity like unto thriving Cincinatti. The
�Louisville House�, a handsome hotel, 60 window-front, in course of creation.
Got Harper, read the conclusion of Bleak House. Scarcely such a brilliant
finale as in other of Dicken�s books. Certain minor characters are too sum-
marily dismissed, Madmoiselle Hortense and the Smallweed�s for instance. Es-
ther Summerson is the most loveable creature in it. By the bye, there�s a
strange blending of the dramatic and autobiographical in the book. Dozed
during the afternoon, and another walk, to the entrance of the Canal, by
the river, & leading from it, the noise of the Fall adjacent, (or rather
rapids) plain to hear. Back to supper, a little scribbling afterwards.
29. Thursday Being aroused at the unholy hour of 4 in the morning,
dressed by lamp-light in the corner of a huge room, four beds in�t, each having
its one or two occupants. And then after some half hours waiting at the portal
of the hotel, looking out on the chill dark street, into the stage, where were three
others male passengers, and a woman. Over a hundred miles stage-riding is
before us, and through the streets and outskirts of Louisville we start, dank
morning and gloom about us. Twas cold and dull, each victim could not
descry his neighbours face, and there was no footfall or sound along the lone